Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Hangzhou, one of my favourite destinations

" In Heaven - there is ParadiseOn Earth - Suzhou and Hangzhou " by Marco Polo

Do you know that Hangzhou, by Yangtze River, was Marco Polo’s favourite city? Marco Polo was not only interested in battles. He was fascinated by the Chinese civilization, and when travelling in China he had the unique opportunity to get acquainted with it at the peak of its glory. Hangzhou, which he was especially impressed with, he called The Heavenly City, Coromoran – “the finest and most splendid city of the world”.

Hangzhou’s history can be traced back more than 50,000 years to the Upper Palaeolithic Period. It gained great importance when the Grand Canal was built (581-618 AD) with Hangzhou as the southern terminus and Beijing as the northern terminus, and Hangzhou began to flourish as a major trade, political and cultural centre.


Hangzhou today is the capital city of Zhejiang Province and one of the richest cities in China. One of its attractions is West Lake, a lake of stunning beauty framed by low mountains on three sides. You can hire a boat and rest comfortably; admire how the sun sparkles in the calm water, while the boatman rows you around for an hour or two. The mountains around West Lake almost drip with ancient Chinese culture. You can see the Leifeng Pagoda on one of the hills, and the “Broken Bridge” below – where the legendary tale of “White Snake” took place. The best view of West Lake is the »Spring Dawn Round the Su Causeway«.

The causeway was built during the Northern Song Dynasty by Su Dongpo, a great scholar in ancient time. Stretching 2.8 km long, it is spanned by six bridges and heavily sheltered by green vegetation. In springtime, the whole causeway is covered by peach blossoms and weeping willows. And there are »the three stone pagodas«, built more than 800 years ago, 2 meters high, which are the main scenic spot the Chinese call "Three Pools Mirroring the Moon". To the west of the isle stand three ball-shaped hollow-stone pagodas with five round holes around. At the night of the Mid-Autumn festival when the moon shines full and bright, a candle is lit inside each of the pagodas. The light and the moon cast their reflections through the holes on the water, hence the name. Very romantic!

Hangzhou life is good for a foreigner, and it is a very liveable city from a Western perspective. The infrastructure, its roads and transportation systems are good. Railway lines from north and south and east to west run through Hangzhou. Hangzhou Airport is located three quarter of an hour outside the city, and has several direct roads leading to Hangzhou. Flights to and from Europe every day. Shanghai is only 3 hours away with train (2 hours with car) and from Shanghai's Pudong Airport a maglev train is being planned to shorten the travel time between the cities down to approximately 30 minutes.

Hangzhou is a modern city, and people enjoy the technical development of today at home as well as in work. The cuisine of Hangzhou is excellent, and you can choose among Chinese restaurants serving traditional Chinese food, self-service hot-pot, noodles specialities, sea food, goat, and flavours of local dishes. You do not have to walk far between the signs of McDonalds, KFC and Pizza Hut. Some foreign restaurants, among the Italian Restaurants serving Italian food and wine are becoming quite popular, and at western Barbeque Restaurants you will be served grilled specialities by servants walking from table to table, while you are listening to live music, often Greenfield and popular music.

The Silk Market is worth a visit, as Hangzhou has a long tradition as the silk centre of China. Some prices are given, some prices can be bargained, and the quality of the silk is high. Hangzhou fresh water pearls – which you can buy at the Pearl Market in Beijing – you better buy them in Beijing, as they are cheaper there than in Hangzhou.


Four Seasons is another market area, it is huge, where you can find all kinds of textiles, clothes and travel accessories.

Hefang Old Street - Night market of Hangzhou is a special experience. Copies of ancient buildings is a well-designed frame around the market street, where you can find not only modern products, textiles and electronic equipment, but also traditional Chinese handcrafts of wood and pottery, silk products, sculptures of jade and gemstones, and art. There are tea houses, coffee bars and restaurants along these streets, and a nice and relaxed atmosphere.

Not far from West Lake you will find the Longjin Village (Dragon Well Village) famous for its Longjin Tea plantations. Longjin Tea – green tea -originates from Hangzhou, is regarded as the elixir for health and is widely sold and accepted all over the world.

From West Lake by foot or bike, it is not far to Lingyin Temple / Monastery of the Hidden Souls. The Lingyin Temple is one of the ten most famous ancient Buddhist temples in China. In front of the temple are various Buddhist literature and treasures situated. Lingyin Temple is also famous for its more than 470 stone carvings of Buddhist figures, which are dated back to the 10th -14th centuries.



Six Harmonies Pagoda (The Liuhe Pagoda), is located on the north bank of the Qiantang River in the south of Hangzhou City. The Liuhe Pagoda is one of the famous ancient pagodas in China and forms the wonderful sceneries of Hangzhou together with "the ten sceneries of the West Lake". Highly erected by the Qiantang River (to the south of West Lake), it is a perfect symbol of brick-and-wood structure built in the ancient China. It was first built in 970 AD in the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127 AD). The name "six harmonies" comes from the six Buddhist ordinances; "harmonies of the heaven, earth, east, west, south and north".

Bao Chu Pagoda. Despite its crumbling appearance, this beautiful pagoda standing on a hill north of West Lake was last rebuilt in 1933. The pagoda's original structure dates from 968 AD, when local courtiers built a pagoda in an effort to ensure the safe return of their local ruler from the Song Dynasty court in Kaifeng.

West Lake Night. Spectacular performances of song, dance, operas, and acrobatics.

The Grand Canal. A boat trip along the canal with the view of the Chinese country side, typical water villages, arched stone bridges and ancient buildings by the riverside.

Song Dynasty Town. Located not far from West Lake, The town is arranged in an original Song style, and the streets are lined with colourful shops, stores, restaurants. It is divided into six parts, Reappearance of the Painting "Riverside Scene on Qingming Festival", Jiulong Square, Song Dynasty Town Square, Fairy Hills with Wonderful Towers, Song Palaces and the Romance of the Song Dynasty. Daily plays and shows featuring Song culture are performed here.

Tomb and Temple of General Yuefei Mu. Located on the West Lake Bank, and is a nice historical place. General Yuefei became well-known in the war against the Jin invasion in the South Song Dynasty. Yuefei proved to be a brilliant general, repeatedly defeating northern incursions.

If you have the possibility to travel out of Hangzhou for a few days, I will recommend that you visit Thousand Islets Lake (160 km west of Hangzhou) and Wuzhen Ancient Town (north of Hangzhou) either by bus or by a rented car with driver.

Thousand Islets Lake is the largest man-made lake in China; it covers an area of 573 sq km, and is famous for its clear water and beautiful scenery. Two ancient towns were located under the lake in 2002, dated back more than 1,800 years.

Wuzhen Ancient Town. Embraced by the Grand Canal, this ancient city has rivers and canals crossing the whole town. Attractions of Wuzhen, is the former residence of Mao Dun – the famous Chinese writer (»Midnight«, among other works). The Taoist Temple, Xiu Zhen Guan, which is built in the Xian Ping Yuan period of Bei Song Dynasty. It is one of three famous Taoist temples in South Bank in Yangtze River.

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